How to read an INCI list: the guide to decoding your cosmetics

On the back of every cosmetic is an ingredient list in Latin and English: the INCI list (International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients). It is mandatory in Europe and identical from one country to another. Read properly, it lets you know what a product really contains, beyond what the label promises.

The 5 rules for reading an INCI

1. Order matters

Ingredients are listed in descending order of concentration, down to 1%. The first ingredients therefore make up most of the formula. Beyond 1%, the order is no longer significant: an active named in the middle or at the end of the list may be present at a low dose.

2. The first ingredient gives the base

Aqua (water) or a plant juice or hydrosol at the top indicates a water-based base, typical of creams, gels and lotions. An oil at the top rather indicates a rich care product or a care oil.

3. Tell actives from "support" ingredients

A formula is made of actives (niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, ceramides, peptides…) and ingredients that give texture, preservation and stability (emulsifiers, thickeners, preservatives). Both are necessary: the presence of an active only makes sense if the rest of the formula makes it usable.

4. Spot fragrance and allergens

The word Parfum (or Fragrance) signals a fragrance ingredient. Regulated allergenic components (Limonene, Linalool, Citral, Geraniol…) must be listed once they exceed a threshold. For sensitive skin, spotting these names is useful: a "fragrance-free" product must not contain Parfum in its list.

5. Asterisks and notes

An asterisk refers to a note at the bottom of the list, for example "ingredient from organic farming". Colorants ("CI" followed by numbers) appear at the end of the list.

A decoded example: the Hyaluronic Acid Face Cream for Men

The list for the Hyaluronic Acid Face Cream for Men starts with Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice (aloe vera juice): the base of the cream is therefore a plant juice, not plain water. Then come fatty substances and emollients (Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, jojoba oil), then Glycerin, which holds water. The hydrating actives, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid and Sodium Hyaluronate, are further down the list: they are present at lower doses, which is common for these ingredients. You also spot Parfum and four regulated allergens (Limonene, Linalool, Citral, Benzyl Salicylate), so this cream is not "fragrance-free".

That is precisely why we indicate, on our product pages, the key actives and, when available, the full ingredient list.

Reading mistakes to avoid

• Believing an active named last does nothing. Some actives are effective at low concentrations; the order says nothing after 1%.
• Confusing "natural" with "gentle". An essential oil is natural, but it contains allergens.
• Judging a formula on a single ingredient. It is the whole that counts, and your skin's tolerance.

And if my skin is sensitive?

Always test a new product on a small area for 48 hours. If a reaction persists, ask a healthcare professional for advice. Find our products in the Face Care collection and the guide to calm redness on sensitive skin.